Just want to check out something I heard about sealing granite tiles, I was told that you had to seal each tile prior to installing them, (contrary to sealing ceramic tile which is sealed after it's installed). Is it necessary to seal the tiles before they're set? If so what type of sealer is best. The tile already has a wet look to it, but is definately not sealed.
Granite is not a very porous product so it's not necessary to preseal material before laying tiles. Usual practise is to proceed with the installation ensuring that you carefully wipe away any residue adhesive or finger marks from the surface of the product as you proceed.
Once the floor is ready for grouting, usually the next day, you can seal the tile surface and grout in one step. Talk to your stone supplier about a suitable sealer. Don't be surprised if he tells you that sealing is not necessary in many instances. You could safeguard yourself by asking him to put that in writing. Always follow manufacturers instructions when you lay or seal products.
If you were laying limestone or marble it would be a good idea to preseal, it's not necessary with granite. In my opinion.
We just got in a bunch of black marble (12x12x1/2). The salesperson said we needed epoxy mortar or else the mortar would ruin the color of the tile. They were out of this special mortar. Is this true, will standard mortar ruin the color? Can alternate adhesives be used?
With black marble, like nero Marquina you can use a white or grey adhesive without any risk of show through. I don't think you need an epoxy adhesive. Call a local contractor or one of the adhesive companies for advice. In general a good cement based adhesive fotified with a flexible additive should do the trick.
Is the color of Travertine marble natural, or is it achieved by staining it as is done with wood?
It is a natural material and while it can be sealed that has no bearing on the products colour, other than making it slightly brighter or duller, depending on the nature of the sealer. Gloss or matt finish?
I am looking for at least 5 12x12 tiles. They were sold by lowe's. Manufactured by CERAMICHE D'ITALIA. COLOR- TUMBLESTONE AMBRA. BOX IS GREEN, WHITE AND RED WITH PLY-GEM MANUFACTURING . ANYONE HAVE ANY FOR SALE ???? OR ANY LEADS ON WHERE TO PURCHASE EXTRA'S ??
If anyone can assist please email: firstname.lastname@example.org.
The product you are seeking is manufactured in Italy by Senio Alta Ceramica. Faentina. Their us distributor is Ceramiche D'Italia. You can email them at email@example.com.
They should be able to assist.
I'm almost through scraping the linoleum off my kitchen and laundry room floor. I plan on laying 12" ceramic tiles. Question is: Do I need to perhaps run a big sander over the concrete now? The concrete looks like it is sealed where the glue was on it. Will the thinset adhere okay as it is?
One possible solution is to make sure you remove as much of the residue adhesive as possible so taht there are no loose or flaking residues. Then apply a coat of self levelling compound over the substrate in accordance with manufacturers instructions. This will provide you with a smooth, flat and ready to tile surface.
The levelling compound will remove any slight variations in the surface. Use an adhesive which is compatible, preferably manufactured by yje company which produced the levelling compound.
I have a floor with linoleum then have placed tiles on top of that. The stick on's are on really well and the floor is very secure. My question is: Can I just thin set and lay 1/4 inch Hardie Backer and just screw it down or should I rip up the linoleum and stick on tiles down to the plywood?
If the existing floor is sound simply lay Hardie Backer board over the top in accordance with manufacturers instructions and then proceed with the tiling, using a suitable adhesive and a flexible grout.
Hi I need some assistance and info. I am trying to put some ceramic tiles on an old concrete floor, for some reason the concrete floor does not have plastic underneath it so there is a possibility of water rising. Is there any base or mortar that will seal the floor and allow the tiles to be put directly on?
Ther should be a damp course in place. You should clean the floor thoroughly so all dust and flaking materials are removed, and then seal it with a suitable concrete sealer, which will provide a key for the tiles to bond to. You need to use a compatible adhesive that will adhere to the sealer.
You could lay a new screed over the existing concrete which incorporates a damp proof membrane. Talk to a builder first.
What is the proper mastic grout and method to install ceramic tile or blue stone on concrete outside? My weather zone is north eastern Pa. I'm sure I need products which will flex with the freeze and thaws. Don't know what to use?
Your best course of action is to contact a major adhesive manufacturer via email or freecall. Speak to their technical department. Both these products can be laid with the same type of adhesive and grout.
The key is to make certain that the ceramic tile is frost resistant and that the work is carried out when its not too cold. The screed needs to be cured and dried, and you must incorporate expansion joints in the tiling wherever joints exist in the concrete base, don't tile over them, they are there for a purpose. Also install perimeter movement joints to cope with potential expansion.
I would like to remove the grout between some of my bathroom tiles. What tool do I use to do this, and can it be done without damaging the tile? Can a decent job be done by someone that has no experience? Is there a special grout to use when I do it. I still have some of the powder (grout) that was used originally. Is there a web site or a great book that would help the inexperienced have fun getting some new experience?
Thanks, from a real beginner.
I'm not sure about having fun but you can use a grout rake to remove old grout. Contact a local tool supplier. When you regrout use an epoxy grout if its a food prep area. I guess you will only need a regular cement based grout. these are available in a multitude of colours. Mix in a flexible additive which will add strength, and improve porosity values.
We have a variety of different sized and shaped ceramic tiles and cork tile on our floor. We want to remove all of them and re-tile. Can you give us any advice on the best removal method and the best equipment to use?
If these materials are stuck direct to concrete you will need to remove the tile mechanically. The cork may have to be removed by hand with some kind of flat edge implement. I guess there is a height variance between the finished level of the two types of flooring so it may be possible to leave the cork where it is and tile over the top of it and still bring the level of the new tiles flush.
If the materials are stuck to backer board you can leverage under the board with a spade or bar and remove backing board, tile, cork etc. Then re-lay new Hardie board and tile.
Call a tiler to give you a quote it may be cheaper and more expedient in the long run.
We need to replace the tile in our underground plaster swimming pool. What glue and grout should we use? We are also repainting the pool. It is empty at the moment. What would be a procedure? What should we do first? Are there any requirements to when it should be filled with water in regards to the grout and glue? Please help me.
The tiling procedure is detailed in our 'Archive 'of articles which can be found under the advice section. See 'Glass mosaic tiling in Pools' in the Tile section.
I've read that after you grout you should wet the grout down twice a day for three consecutive days to make it harder and a bit more waterproof. I also read that if you use a grout mixed with an additive that you don't need to do this and the grout will be harder and a bit more waterproof as a result of the additive. However, I don't see any mention of what additive to add or what type of grout to add it to. The Polyblend sanded grout I bought just says to mix with clean water. Should I mix it with the acrylic mortar addmix I mixed with the thinset used to tile the shower wall?
Call the manufacturer or his distributor. Most grout manufacturers sell 2 types; epoxy and cementitious grout. Epoxy is the best but most expensive. You can improve the flexibility, strength and porosity of cementitious grout by mixing in an additive reccommended by the manufacturer. This is important in wet areas or in locations where the tiling is exposed to movement or change in temperature.. Check with your supplier.
Is it possible to restore salt damaged terracotta pool tiles?
I'm not sure that damage is the correct terminology. Efflorescence occurs with stone and terracotta, and the issue can normally be resolved. As a member of Infotile you can access our growing archive of close to 200 articles on various topics which include installation and maintenance issues.
Check under 'sealing and maintenance' for Colin Cass' article on managing efflorescence, hopefully it will address your problem.
I am looking for companies who supply POS & inventory software to run Tile Shops.
There are two companies that we know of: Clear Software 07 5593 3022 www.cleartile.com.au Micronet 02 9542 2000 www.micronet.com.au